CIGARS IN RIO - TRANSPOSIÇÃO DO SITE DA CIGAR AFICIONADO

Artigo de Suzie Nash, postado na revista online da Cigar Aficionado em 2/3/2005:

"Like a phoenix rising from the ashes of a post City of God world, the glittering metropolis of Rio de Janeiro is in the midst of a vibrant cultural awakening. The town that once dismissed tobacco as the device of ancient macumba rituals (Brazilian voodoo) is lighting up, and these days the ashes are from tobacco leaves.
With the stabilization of inflation and a wave of privatization that is persuading multinational corporations to relocate their cosmopolitan top guns to Latin America's most populous nation, cariocas, as denizens of Rio are called, are developing a keen appreciation for the finer things in life. But for the first time in history, the love of luxury is seeping beyond the bounds of aristocracy into the middle class.

"Cigar consumption is like a thermometer that measures the sophistication of Brazilian society," said Bernardo Leão, a native of Rio whose tour business caters to both domestic and international business and leisure travelers. "The number of clients seeking tabacarias and cigar cafes has increased dramatically in the last five to 10 years."

A recent visit proved the boom is in full swing. In the Centro district at the chaotic SAARA market, known for its cheap knockoffs of luxury goods manufactured in Paraguay, kiosks selling a full range of domestic and imported cigars and accessories have sprung up in the last year alone. In restaurants, umidors now occupy as prominent a place in the bar as the local top-shelf cachaca, the sugar-cane liquor coveted by locals. The highlights follow.

Tabacaria Africana is the must-see merchant that claims its place as Brazil's oldest tobacconist. In business since 1846, when Dom Pedro II ruled the Portuguese empire from his throne in Rio -- and himself became a regular client at its counters -- the store is known for the quality and breadth of its selection as well as its attentive service and significant deals. It has the feel of a classic indoor bazaar with brightly lit display windows and gleaming glass counters. Heads of state subsequent to the Portuguese king have patronized Tabacaria Africana as well; in the 1950s President Getulio Vargas stopped by weekly to purchase his favorite GGG cigars fashioned especially for him in the Bahia province north of the city, and President Juscelino Kubitschek frequently dropped in to have his lighters fixed. The store has since been renovated to climatic perfection and expanded to showcase brands from Brazil, the Canary Islands, Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Honduras, the Netherlands and Switzerland, among others. It also stocks a selection of mini-cigars, popular among locals. There's a cozy room where customers can enjoy a smoke and a cocktail or a cup of the shop's famous espresso. Be prepared to have your favorite stogie autographed as celebrity sightings are frequent.
> Tabacaria Africana, Largo do Paço, 38 (praça XV) – Centro, +55 (21) 2509-5333, www.tabacariaafricana.com


If Tabacaria Africana is Rio's original cigar merchant, then Esch Café is its archetypal cigar bistro. Established in 1994 by Edgar Esch as a place where the best food in Brazil could be enjoyed alongside the best liquor and the best cigars, Esch Café is preparing to expand its current franchise of two - in Leblon and Centro - to include a third location in Sao Paulo within the year. The café specializes in Cuban cigars and stocks a comprehensive range of brands, including Cohiba, Romeo y Julieta, Montecristo, Partagas, Bolivar, Punch, Hoyo de Monterrey, Saint Luis Rey, H. Upmann, Ramon Allones, Rey del Mundo, Vegas Robaina, San Cristobal de la Habana, Juan Lopez, and Fonseca. They also sell Brazilian smokes such as the Dona Flor and Alonso Menendez brands. Regular jazz performances enhance the bustling atmosphere, and a walk-in humidor accommodates up to six guests. Staff members trained by tobacconists in Panama, Cuba and Honduras accommodate clients' requests for hand-rolled cigars; and manager Mariana Souza de Lima acknowledges that the majority of customers prefer a robusto in keeping with the Brazilian appetite for intense experiences.
> Esch Café, Rua Dias Ferreira, 78A, Leblon, +55 (21) 2512-5651, www.eschcafe.com.br

The clearest sign yet that the city has truly embraced cigar culture is that its biggest churrasco (steak) Porcão, has signed a deal with cigarmaker El Puro to develop an aggressive cigar-selling program to supplement its already booming bar and restaurant business among corporate and leisure clientele. Each of its five locations offers a selection of more than 40 labels. The company has designed intimate bar spaces, set apart from the din of the meat-wielding waiters and their clamoring customers for which the churrascaria is known, that seductively merchandise high-end liquor alongside high-end tobacco. The wine list is meticulously maintained by renowned local sommelier Paulo Nicolay, and sumptuous leather chairs, live music and soft lighting make it difficult for customers to leave.
> Porcao Rio's, Av. Infante Dom Henrique, s/numero, Aterro do Flamengo, +55 (21) 3461-9020, www.porcao.com.br

At an exchange rate that is holding steady at roughly 2.6 Brazil Reais to the U.S. dollar, even the Churchills are cheap."